Firstly, be prepared, for summer is upon us. The Kruger has bypassed spring and plunged straight into 35 degree weather where even the breeze seems to melt before touching your skin! I’ve arrived at nThambo Tree Camp in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve and I am relieved to find a perfectly inviting swimming pool twinkling upon the deck, nicely lined with sun loungers, awaiting an afternoon snoozer. First things first, though, I have to report on my stunning introduction to nThambo.
Whisked off on game drive after barely having set foot on camp grounds yesterday afternoon, the guides made sure I was getting what I came for. I joined the Africa on Foot group, our very friendly neighbours, who trundled up in the classic open-top safari vehicle, added my drinks order to the already-clinking cooler box, briefed me (very briefly) on safari safety, and chugged off into sun-soaked Greater Kruger. Without a jacket, and not even my camera, I was thrown into the inimitable wonderment of the African bushveld, prepared to ‘absorb’ instead of capture what I saw.
A quiet sighting of a lone elephant bull offered a guilty face to the stripped marula trees that abundantly scatter the Ross farm. A curious giraffe gave us a long hard look, striking and awkwardly elegant figure against the darkening sky, while a pale form Wahlberg’s eagle got us grappling for our bird books. Tracker, ‘Fafa’ (short for Francois), was bang on the money with his identification, explaining that he has only ever seen one once before, and that this is a truly unique viewing. Keen birders, (even amateurs such as myself) would appreciate the close look we had at the eagle’s darting eyes and powerful talons, but as is custom, a little too much attention sent this bird of prey swooping off its branch in search of a better hiding place.
This morning’s early awakening (5am to be exact) took us on a hunt to find 3 rhinos that had been spotted at the camp’s waterhole earlier that morning. What a glorious drive through the coolish morning air, sweet and spicy scents of the vegetation and a neon orange, perfectly circular sun rising rapidly from the horizon, mirroring the full moon that had sunk the night before. Although we are yet to find those rhinos, we were treated to an enormous herd of around 200 buffalo, moving slowly, through the bush, lazily licking their own nostrils in between feeds. Hugely bossed ‘dugga boys’ brought up the rear, demonstrating just how enormous these Big Five bovines are.
Some more bird appreciation followed with much-prettier-than-they-sound, lilac-breasted rollers; fly-away tail, magpie shrikes; the ‘dawn chorus’ (as described by ranger, Gawie) sung by many yellow-billed hornbills; the typical cackle of the crested francolins following us wherever we went; and, something truly special – a pair of African hawk eagles. Gawie’s proclaimed favourite of the eagles, these two sharp-eyed birds boast some of the most successful predatory skills there are.
A restful afternoon back at camp after a delicious flapjack and bacon breakfast, and only more of what we’ve had awaits this evening with my 3rd nThambo game drive! I look forward to finding those rhinos…
