The diverse wilderness of Botswana incorporates the world’s largest protected wetland of the Delta, the permanently flowing liquid gold of the Okavango river determinedly quenching the northern reaches of the vastest, driest desert in Africa; the Kalahari. What used to be a colossal, inland sea of water is now a stark expanse of flat landscape, relying on the pumped waterholes that have been manufactured to sustain the desert’s wild inhabitants. In 1961, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve CKGR was established as a movement towards protecting the San people who still call this desert their home.
Since then, this mammoth conservation area in the centre of Botswana has become a treasure chest of unique wildlife viewing opportunities. Here awaits the chance to witness great African moments in sweet solitude, without the intrusion of tourists or the urgent race to a shared sighting. The vastness of this reserve is by no means an indication of a high number of campsites. In fact, the preservation of this historically precious area insists that only a certain number of vehicles are permitted to enter the reserve at once, and the sprinkling of lodges are few and far between, allowing visitors to roam freely and enjoy the richness of the Kalahari.
The further south one ventures, the drier and sandier the reserve becomes. Trundling deeper into the desert removes the presence of natural water and introduces the parched, stark earth, hinting toward the thirst-land that is the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, shared between southern Botswana and northern South Africa. Self-drivers embarking on a desert safari in the CKGR are advised to fully cater for their needs, including their need for drinking water, as the southern regions of this reserve demonstrate the true reality of a desert safari. Quite drastically different is the variety of thorn and acacia trees that are buried deep into the soil of the north, in and amongst a green grassland that gives the Botswana Pans a lick of colour in the rainy summer months.
During this wet season, a desert contrast is created as short, luscious grass sweetens the earth and an emerald softness spreads over the rolling landscape, decorating bare branches with vibrant leaves and filling crystallised pans with liquid life. This phenomenal celebration of nature is known as the Green Season, and this is when Botswana becomes home to the world’s only Green Desert. Thousands of gemsbok, springbok and wildebeest bring with them the hungry predator population, led by lion, cheetah and jackal. An utterly wild vision, only comparable with mass migration of the Serengeti and the Masai Mara.
An enthralling combination of tremendously memorable sights and sounds depict what awaits in a Kalahari safari. Within the world’s greatest sand basin, the CKGR gathers eternal grass plains, spiny growths of acacia woodlands, and thirsty, waterless surfaces defeated by an annual explosion of greenery. The most eagerly sought-after predators stalk the abundance of springbok, shoulder blades shrinking below the height of the grasses, while the endangered African wild dog can be seen trotting along in painted packs. An indulgence of animal sightings make the Central Kalahari, the world’s second largest game reserve; a wildlife-watchers dream destination.
A few favourites up for recommendation in the category of CKGR lodge accommodation ought to be mentioned. Tau Pan Camp keeps things luxuriously spacious with raised guest suites, extending outwards with large wooden viewing decks offering a heightened perspective of the surrounding plains. Ecologically sensitive, Tau Pan embraces a solar-powered philosophy and is unusually positioned upon a hill, which is somewhat unique for Botswana’s flatland. Kalahari Plains Camp, introduces luxury canvas tents to the safari experience with individually constructed units, raised off the ground on short, wooden stilts and offering a starlit sleeping option with a rooftop bedroom positioned, ceiling-less, atop the canvas. The open-sided lounge is dressed with colourful carpets and decadent furniture that prompts the comfortable sprawl of bird-watchers and bookworms alike. Haina Kalahari Lodge, nestled just beyond the northern border of the CKGR in a private concession, entices thirsty lions to its waterhole during the dry winter months. Offering both standard and luxury suites, genuinely decorated with Africa in mind, Haina Lodge authentically reflects the bushveld it’s so comfortably made its home.
Contact us to design the perfect Central Kalahari safari at any one of our recommended lodges.
